Saturday, Day Four: Bulguksa and Seokguram Grotto

Eating eel soup

We set out to visit Gyeong Ju, and the Bulguksa Seokguran Grotto complex, all UNESCO World Heritage sites. We didn't get off until about 11:00 but it was a good trip. When we got there we stopped for lunch along the road and had eel soup with the usual side dishes. The eel is minced so it could be any fish. It was tasty. Geoffrey said the eel soup he had is Changwon was better and we'll try it next week. 

Main hall at Bulguksa

Geoffrey at Bulguksa

We went first to Bulguksa (Buddha Nation temple) and I did a lot of walking and climbing, especially of steps, and my knees got weak.The place is on a mountain side and is approached by a path going up. At the main complex there are stone steps  everywhere (random height). I managed but when we found out the Grotto was at another location 8 km. further up the mountain I wondered if I could walk mountain paths all over again there. We did see the major halls and on the way out I got a Buddhist rosary (108 beads) and some post cards. Geoffrey bought us coffee. We then went back, got in the car, and headed up to Seokguram Grotto. There were pull offs every couple klicks along the road and he pulled off at three to look but the trees obscured the view. 

Ringing the bell at Seokguram Grotto

When we got to Seokguram Grotto there were more stairs. At the top of the first set was a "bell for suffering" which one could ring for ₩1000. We each paid and rang it. We then walked along a path down and then back up to the Grotto. It was listed as .6 km but it seemed like more; I dreaded the walk back which would be mostly up hill. We had to climb more stone steps to get to the Grotto itself and I needed Geoffrey's help to make it. I wondered aloud how much merit I earn by doing this, but I am very glad I did it.The statue is very impressive. It and the grotto date from the 8th century (Silla dynasty). It is all enclosed in glass so you can see the Buddha and two guardians in karate stances on either side in bas relief, but you can't see the sides or the ceiling. Wikipedia says it is "3.5 meters in height and sits on a 1.34 meter tall lotus pedestal."

UNESCO picture of Seokguram Grotto Buddha

Going back I kept telling myself "whatever doesn't kill you makes you stronger" (not strictly true I suppose). One time when I was sitting, resting, we saw a father playing with his son on the path; I asked Geoffrey "Don't you want one of those?" meaning the child. I quickly added "but I don't want to encourage you to do anything ill considered." Going up it seemed much longer than coming back, strange in that coming back was more up hill.

It was too late to go into GyeongJu, and we saw what was important to me. Geoffrey agreed and seemed anxious to get back, so we headed back. We did stop at a coffee shop for Geoffrey to get some GyeongJu Bang, a small cake with sweet bean mash inside, as gifts for the Parks and others. North of Busan we pulled off in a town for dinner and to give Geoffrey a rest. We found a traditional working class type restaurant, kind of dingy (the kind I remember) on a side street and went in. There was an older man sitting at a table by himself, quite drunk and singing, probably the owner's father or grandfather. I referred to him as the entertainment. He tried to engage me in conversation but after a couple questions (How old are you? I'm 80.) I started to ignore him. Geoffrey and I both had a stone hot rice pot (dolsotpap = 돌솥밥) with lots of side dishes to mix in, most spicy which I couldn't eat so I had less variety, but Geoffrey let me have the whole eight inch fish and acorn paste jelly (not sweet), to compensate.  

Geoffrey did all the driving. I offered to do some on the expressway (I wouldn't drive in traffic) but he declined. In Changwon he allowed as it would be nice if I could drop him off at the hotel to meet Wayne since he would be taking a cab home (they'd be drinking) but I just said I'd get lost getting home; I had already said I didn't want to drive in traffic. We got home at about 9:15 and Geoffrey went right back out to meet Wayne. 

My knees in particular are wobbly and my calves ache. I had trouble getting out of the car and up the steps, but it was a very good day, we had a good time together and saw the temple and the grotto. There were so many people it wasn't a spiritual experience, but it was full of cultural and historical meaning. Geoffrey promises tomorrow will be less strenuous.

See more pictures at Picasa.